IN WHOM WE TRUST!

Robert E. Cliff

(GWP Magazine July 2010)

Faith, confidence, expectation & reliance – all the ingredients of trust, all the reasons why we once happily referred all our friends to “My Doctor”, “My Dentist”, “My Hairdresser” and “My Jeweller”.  Australia, once relatively insulated from the rest of the world, has matured and our wants and needs have changed.  We are far more discerning now in our purchasing experiences and thus should be wary of our vulnerability.

I will attempt here to offer our reader a basic appreciation of precious metals, gemstones and qualities that may help and to encourage us back to that old fashion world of Trust!

Seeking out a reputable jeweller - firstly, one that is actually a Jeweller and secondly, one that you trust to help you make an honest, informed decision.  This is actually more priceless than your purchase!  Salesmanship is out of control, and like buying a car, you have to ensure that the service is going to be there in the future.  Ensure that your “jeweller” is actually a Jeweller and not just a retailer of jewellery.  Registered Jewellery Trade certificates & Manufacturing Workshop, Industry memberships such as Registered Jewellery Valuer & Gemmologists, Retail Traders Association, is to name just a few of the necessities and that were, once a pre-requisite of being called a Jeweller.

Diamonds are breathtakingly beautiful, get the blinkers off and don’t be blinded by size or price.  Diamonds of equal size can vary significantly in value, depending on their quality.  All your Diamond purchases should be accompanied by a Valuation for insurance at the very least and your Diamond should have its own appraisal (not to be confused) that must include the four main factors that affect a diamond’s quality rating – that is, cut, colour, clarity and caret weight.  This appraisal will ensure your diamond is not synthetic, free from treatments and is conflict free.  Note, most diamonds have a one or many flaws, it is the degree of the visuality that affects the value of your diamond – most can only be seen using very powerful microscopes – done before the stone is set into a piece of jewellery.

Coloured Gemstones, of excellent quality are as prized as diamonds for their durability, beauty and rarity.  In all beautiful gems, their value is often owed to its cut – it allows us to enjoy and appreciate its true colour and splendour within.  Transparent gemstones cut from a single original crystal are the most prized, however, it must be noted that most coloured gemstones sold today have been treated in some way to increase their value.

In purchasing your gold Jewellery always search for the carat mark stamp that refers to the amount of pure gold contained within your piece.  Pure gold (24ct) is too soft for most jewellery so it is alloyed with other precious and base metals to increase its durability.  White and rose gold are created by mixing yellow gold with small quantities of other metals. For white gold it also has a coating of rhodium to enhance its brightness (In the past, nickel was used in white gold, however, due to skin allergies, it  is infrequent in its use today).  The makers mark, manufacturer’s identity stamp, jeweller’s logo or initials are often visual on Gold jewellery. 

	PRECIOUS METAL MARKINGS
GOLD	SILVER	PLATINUM
9k or 375	Sterling	Plat
14k or 585	925	Pt
18k or 750		950
22k or 916

Pearls much loved traditionally and admired for the uniqueness and luminous beauty.  The diamonds of the sea are a personal favourite of mine!  Most Pearls sold today re cultured, meaning that man has triggered the shell to create a pearl by inserting, physically, a small irritant that the oyster naturally coats with layers of nacre to give pearls their glow.  Natural Pearls are formed when this happens naturally – and today, extremely rare.  Size, depth of lustre and iridescence of the pearl gives Pearls their value.  Bigger, in this case, is generally better, but shape affects value too.  Irregular shaped pearls are sold as baroque pearls.

Antique jewellery certainly has its own specialised market, however, in Australia there is very little of it, genuine antique that is and you are likely to pay too much for a rare piece.  “Estate” Jewellery does not guarantee that it is a genuine antique.  Genuine antique pieces always had the makers stamp inside.  Any pieces said to be Antique and from England should carry a LAPADA certificate which guarantees it is over 100 year old.  When buying Antique Jewellery for an investment – know how you may resell it so you can realize your investment and be prepared that it may be some time before fashion swings your way.

I do believe, that all fine Jewellery purchases should be accompanied by a detailed Valuation report, a document that is acceptable for your insurance company, and an estimate of the market price for your item at time of purchase. Registered Valuers are experts in gemstone grading and in detecting synthetic substitutes.

With apparent vast “choices”, great dollars spent in advertising and all ensuring us  that they have  ”much better value for money” than anyone else, it is here where I am seeing caution depart.   “Caveat Emptor” (the Latin phrase for “buyer beware”) has never before in the Jewellery Industry in Australia been more true when investing in fine Jewellery.  Ensure, with confidence, that when you are making that very special, emotional, frivolous or investment purchase that you are undertaking this with someone you have faith in, and has a conviction to your beautiful fine jewellery’s future.  It’s all about Trust!